Bringing Bangladeshi Flavours to a London Kitchen

Cooking the food you grew up with is one of the simplest ways to keep a culture alive. In Tower Hamlets it has never been easier, and in Luton, Oldham, Bradford or Birmingham there is usually a Bangladeshi grocer close by. If there isn't one near you, a well-stocked cupboard gets you most of the way.

The pantry to build first

• Mustard oil (shorisha tel): sharp and pungent. It is the backbone of bhorta and fish curries. Heat it until it just smokes to mellow it for cooking, or use it raw where you want the kick.
• Panch phoron: the Bengali five-spice of fenugreek, nigella (kalo jira), cumin, black mustard and fennel seeds. A spoonful spluttering in hot oil starts countless dal and vegetable dishes.
• Turmeric, chilli powder, cumin and coriander: the everyday masala.
• Dried red chillies: for tempering and for roasting into bhorta.
• Shatkora: the thick-skinned Sylheti citrus that gives beef and fish curries their fragrant sourness. Buy it frozen and slice it rind and all.
• Naga chillies: very hot and very fragrant. Use half of one, not three.

Bhorta: the heart of the table

A bhorta is a mash, and almost anything can become one: potato, roasted aubergine, lentils, tomato, shutki, even leftover fish. The method is always the same. Cook the main ingredient until soft, then mash it with raw onion, green chilli, salt, fresh coriander and a generous spoon of mustard oil.

Begun bhorta without a clay oven

Char a whole aubergine directly over a gas flame, under a hot grill or in an air fryer until the skin blisters and the inside collapses. Peel, then mash with onion, chilli, coriander, salt and mustard oil.

Alu bhorta

Boil potatoes, mash them roughly with fried dried chillies, onion and mustard oil. Serve it next to dal and rice and everyone will ask for more.

A few tips from our kitchens

• Temper your spices in hot oil before adding onions. That first sizzle is where the flavour starts.
• Use a heavy pan and give onions time. Proper golden bhuna onions cannot be rushed.
• Rice is the main event, so cook more than you think you need.

The flavours of home don't need a trip to desh, just a good cupboard and someone to cook for.